All you possibly can eat: Edmonton’s meals scene is getting larger and higher in 2019
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Ice cream, Korean food and eating in pajamas were at the forefront of Edmonton’s food trends this year
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December 24, 2019 • December 24, 2019 • Read for 5 minutes • Join the conversation 
Marcus Purtzki of Marcus Ice Cream brought his Calgary concept to Whyte Avenue this year. Photo by David Bloom / Postmedia Photo by David Bloom /Postal media
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Everyone has their favorite reason to love the Edmonton food scene. This year it was my ice cream.
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The arrival of at least two new frozen delicacies in 2019 – Made by Marcus and KIND – has once again made me grateful for living in a city that eats better every year. Both stores on the south side complement the wide range of local options for cold comfort, including Yelo’d, Fan Fan, and DaVinci Gelato, as well as chain deals like Italian chain La Carraia.
The co-owners of the KIND ice cream parlors Nicole Bhar (left) and Paula Shyba have settled in Ritchie. Photo by Greg Southam / Postmedia. Photo by Greg Southam /Postal media
This year has been bittersweet for me from a food standpoint as I left the beat in September after following the food scene for 11 years. However, freelance journalist Tom Murray has taken on the matter and penned a column of food notes every two weeks that shows up. Magazine readers are also well served with the reviews of our three restaurant authors, which are also submitted every two weeks.
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One of the most notable features of 2019 was the growing strength of several key food areas, such as the 124 St. area. With Canteen and RGE RD as its anchor point, 124 St. has long been a hub for diners, welcoming several newcomers, including OEB for the all-day brunch, another iteration of Farrow sandwiches, and Woodshed, a burger concept by Paul Shufelt of Workshop Eatery, which also reflects Edmonton’s devotion to beef on a bun. The bad news at 124 St. is that the gold medalist chef Jan Trittenbach was forced to close his signature spot, Solstice, after five years.
Also new at 124 St. is the Blue Plate Diner, which has left its long-standing niche at 104 St. Downtown. The old room of the diner is now occupied by Royale Burger under the direction of head chef Alexei Boldireff, further proof that this city not only loves burgers, but also specialty restaurants with a main course such as burgers, ramen or pretzels.
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The Oliver area got a boost with the opening of the historic Oliver Exchange, another immediate destination that is attracting a lot of visitors with a new bakery, Brio, as well as Culina-to-Go, Odd Company Brewing and Iconoclast Coffee. The Baker’s Son, an offshoot of the delicious Art of Cake, took root in Oliver at the Allin Clinic.
The Ritchie neighborhood was crazy about food too. Ritchie Market, along with a mall renovation in the neighborhood of the City of Edmonton’s Facade Improvement Program, has proven to be a magnet, drawing people like Donut Party, KIND Ice Cream and a satellite from Duchess Bake Shop to the ‘booth.
The Braven Restaurant opened in downtown Edmonton in August with its Black Forest Eton Mess Sundae with Brownies. Photo by Shaughn Butts / Postmedia Photo by Shaughn Butts /Postal media
Often a drudgery for restaurants trying to gain a foothold, downtown has seen a renewal. A second Dorinku location moved into the space that was once replaced by Ben Staley’s Alder Room on Jasper Ave. Fanfare was captured. The fast, casual Tiffin India’s Fresh Kitchen moved to the long-standing Sobey’s in Jasper and 104 St. and the early food truck innovator Filistix moved to 100 Ave. in a new all-day concept. in 106 St.
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Sadly, Chef Larry Stewart’s Hardware Grill was shut down after 23 years; Stewart never fully recovered from an expensive argument with the landlord who had shut down Stewart’s innovative tavern in 1903 five years earlier. It also makes me sad to note the closure of Holt’s Cafe in Holt Renfrew, which will serve its last lunch on December 28th, just before the store completely closes at the beginning of the New Year after 79 years in town. My mother and I enjoyed lots of Benny eggs and a glass of Chardonnay in this bright, calm and stylish oasis.
A group of Asian-inspired concepts arrived on the south side, with Jollibee’s tribute to the Philippines adding a new selfie destination on the Calgary Trail and H Mart at the South Park Shopping Center bringing more Korean food options to Edmonton. The wave of Korean food experiences continues on 34th Ave. Continuing unabated, with fresh faces Gangnam Street Food, Let Eat Snow and A-Mart Grocery.
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The Highlands neighborhood found out about the lineups when two new Nate Box food concepts debuted on the Gibbard Block – Fox Burger and June’s Deli. Down the street is Bodega on 112 Ave. continues to be excellent value for money, so another version of the popular tapas restaurant has opened in St. Albert.
The vegan scene is clearly changing, with trailblazer Noorish closing this year and forcing Matthew Kenney’s Kanu to rename it to be a vegan pizza place called Doppio Zero. However, the folks behind Die Pie have opened another vegan place called Pêche Cafe. Other food trends to keep an eye out for include the lingering but baffling fascination with delivery-driven dining with ghost kitchens emerging to cater to the Hermit Market, including Jackpot Brandz and The Flying DoDough by Century Hospitality.
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It’s been a great year for cookbook authors in Edmonton with three new works. Karlynn Johnston published her second cookbook, The Prairie Table, as did Giselle Courteau with Duchess At Home. Shane Chartrand and Jennifer Cockrall-King worked together on Tawâw, which describes the Metis chef’s impressive culinary and cultural journey.
Smoked salmon with chanterelles and Saskatoon sauce from the new indigenous cookbook Tawâw by Shane Chartrand and Jennifer Cockrall-King. Photo by Cathryn Sprague. Photo by Cathryn Sprague /Postal media
Farmers markets had a moment in YEG. Bountiful opened a three-day, year-round market on 97th St. at 36 Ave. The Downtown Farmers Market is in flux and will move into the former GWG building on 97th St. at 103 Ave for the winter, Saturdays and Sundays. It’s unclear what will happen in the summer as the LRT construction and unpredictable weather in Edmonton outdoors on 104th Street becomes a tricky proposition.
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The shaky economy could be a reason Red Robin closed all of its YEG restaurants this year, while Tony Romas closed most of its local branches. But independent restaurant owners continue to show courageous faces, with positive enthusiasm for the newcomers Bardot Brasserie, El Beso, Bianco and Lyon.
The year ended with a high point for local bakers to shine like the prairie sun during season three of CBC’s Great Canadian Baking Show. Two Edmontonians made it to the semi-finals, and administrative assistant Nataliia Shevchenko topped the popular series. It was also a treat to watch cute and charming Season 2 Edmonton student Timothy Fu – the youngest entrant on the series to date – win the recent Christmas Special Contest.
I undoubtedly missed seeing something remarkable (rather many things) in this wrap. The Edmonton food scene changes as the weather changes, with as many storms and glimpses of light. Every year there are gains and losses, but the passion this city shows in making and striving for good food remains inspiring. Get out there to enjoy as much as you can in 2020.
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